John Lobb shoemakers is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a center of footwear production in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The line combines iconic staples with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb continues to be a defining name in world-class shoemaking.
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