The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the 1600s. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 1800s.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in the British footwear industry.
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