John Lobb is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines iconic staples with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen double monks gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb continues to be a defining name in English shoemaking.
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